It was not only a race, but a lifetime experience.
200km - 6 Stages + 10.800m / - 8.000m
UTMB qualifying race!
Punakha Dzong, Bhutan - Stage 1 Race Start Location
Paro Taktsang, Bhutan - Stage 6 Race Finish Location
On 26 May 2017 we arrived in Bhutan, the happiest country on earth!
The unique landlocked country high in the Himalayas, was not the easiest country to get to. The government and the people of Bhutan are very protective of their land and heritage. Few flights only arrive in Paro each week, my friend Kat and I with two other friends Jasmine and Issa took a connecting flight from Dubai and flew in via Delhi and via Nepal on the way back.
We were greeted by a team at the airport and transported to a Hotel in Thimpu, where Stefan the race director was waiting for everyone to arrive. We registered, got our gear checked, met with the organizers, the medical team and most of the runners. For this race we didn't actually get a number everyone had their name on their race BIB. It wasn't a fully self supported race, we carried our mandatory gear, hydration and fuel for the day, and a 10kg bag was transported by the organizers from one camp to another.
Gear checked and approved to run. Photo credit: Global Limits
At the Hotel Pre-race. Photo credit: Global Limits
The next day on 27 May 2017 we were taken on a cultural tour of Thimpu, visited the Dochula Pass at 3100m, where on a clear day you can see the Bhutanese section of the Himalayas. Then we went to the Punakha Dzong, the second oldest and second largest Dzong in Bhutan and one of its most majestic structures, where the race was to start from the next day. (Dzong is a 'fortress-monastery' or 'castle' frequently built on a hilltop or mountain, mainly found in Bhutan and Tibet). The day ended after we reached the camp site (Camp 1) by the river side where tents were set and ready to welcome the runners.
Dochula Pass, Bhutan
CAMP 1, located next to Punakha Dzong at 1200m by the river side
Stefan and the medical team briefed us on Stage 1. On the Global Limits team we had two doctors from the USA Ryan Paterson and Tatiana Havryliuk who took care of our medical needs during the race. The volunteers were Rodrigo Acinas Mena from Spain, Harri Washington who came from Cambodia, Meese Geert from Belgium and Kinzang Wangdi from Bhutan. As well as Manu Pastor the course marker from Burgos Spain, who didn't hesitate to take us through the nastiest sections throughout the race.
Thereafter, everyone was settled into his tent and ready for the next day, the start of the awaited 200km race. The weather was great throughout the day but it rained pretty heavy in the night. After sometime I started feeling my sleeping bag was getting wet, the tent cover had moved and water came inside, we had a big puddle in our tent that Kat and I were sharing. Most of our stuff got wet but luckily we moved to the tent where the volunteers and some of the crew were sleeping and sorted ourselves in the best way possible before the race started. Anyhow, it is what it is, you got to be ready for anything!
Camp 1, Pho Chu River
Race briefing. Photo credit: Global Limits
Pho Chu River , Punakha
THE START CEREMONY
On 28 May 2017, the start of the 1st stage of the race
It was a very special and moving moment, around 500 students lined up to cheer us, and chanted the Bhutanese national anthem. We got the blessings of the Punakha Dzong Lama (Senior Buddhist Monk) for a safe journey and a good weather. It was also the birthday of the oldest competitor, Moo Woong 74 year old South Korean, so the children and runners sang ‘Happy Birthday’ to him. My heart was pounding, my friends who ran this race the year before Louise, Maria and Charlie told me a lot about it.
Stefan, waved his arm and off we went marking the start of the 5th edition of the Last Secret!
Punakha Dzong, Bhutan - Race Start Location
Happy Moo Woong. Photo credit: Global Limits
With the Lama of Punakha Dzong
STAGE 1 – 31 km, Punakha To Chorten Nyingpo
31km that followed the river valley then a climb to approximately 1750m. There were checkpoints at between 8 to 12km. The first section was flat, then we crossed the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan to get to the first checkpoint. Few kms of the race passed through the King’s farmland and continued on some fairly flat before the last and major climb for about 6,5km on road, it wasn't technical, and ended in a monastery. I finished in 04:15:45 time coming in 4th female and 12th overall together with Cyndi Shettle from the USA. I met Cyndi for the first time on the race at the first checkpoint, and we ran together till the finish. Louise was actually a common friend (pen pal friend of Cyndi) and we both signed up to the race after her. What a small world!
Stage 1 course map. Photo credit: Global Limits
Longest suspension bridge in Bhutan
The climb towards the monastery
CAMP 2, Chorten Nyingpo monastery at 1750m
At the monastery, there was cold water taps outside 'showers' where we could rinse off the dirt and change into clean dry clothes. I put my clothes out to dry, recharged my gadgets, and got ready for the next day. After dinner, we were invited by the senior monks for a meditation and chanting ceremony which happened to be on a special Buddhist ritual. We made our wishes and received the blessings of the Lama. It was a unique and memorable evening, that very few people get to experience. No pictures were allowed inside the monastery so I couldn't document that. But thankfully I slept well that night, it could be 'The sound of Om' that we chanted during the ceremony!
Chorten Nyingpo Monastery
Chorten Nyingpo Monastery overlooking the valley
Charging station
Stage 1 still looking fresh
STAGE 2 – 29 km, 29 May 2017, Chorten Nyingpo To Thimphu Valley
We climbed to a mountain pass at 3500m, then a descent to 2500m through a forest. This stage had the most climbs and most of it occurred in one climb of about 14km. The terrain was mostly technical through a forest and it got really muddy in places. Mid way through the climb, we found ourselves trying to overtake a parade of cows that was blocking the path. The final checkpoint was at the end of the climb, then the course turned up into a farmyard then downhill into a valley until we reached the next camp (Camp 3) in a farm house. This stage was challenging and the trail was remarkable!
Stage 2 course map. Photo credit: Global Limits
After we finally managed to take over the cows
Tricky terrain through the forest that kept going up
CAMP 3, Farm House in Thimpu at 2500m
We reached the farm house, Stefan was waiting as always for everyone to arrive. The local children were also excited and were at the finish to greet the runners. Every group of runners shared a room. The floor was hardwood, quite different to sleeping in a tent. I realized that I should have packed a lightweight pad to lay under my sleeping bag, it would have provided more comfort. Also, it was advised to pack ear plugs, which I didn't take with me knowing that I normally do not sleep with them. For Bhutan it was essential to pack specially near villages, dogs sleep throughout the day and bark, howl most of the night.
After we ate dinner, it was time to prepare for the 3rd stage of the race.
The farm house where we spent the night. Photo credit: Global Limits
Stefan waiting for the runners to arrive. Photo credit: Global Limits
Dogs of Bhutan, recharging for the night
STAGE 3 – 28km, 30 May 2017, Thimphu Valley To Phajoding Monastery
The first section was flat, the route then went along the valley across the river and back on the other side until it reached the first checkpoint. Then a short sharp climb to a monastery at 2800m to get to the second checkpoint next to a giant prayer wheel. The course then followed a ridge before a long hard climb to the Phajoding monastery at 3600m. There were lots of prayer flags along the route.
As I was getting closer to the camp site I felt the lower levels of oxygen. The training you get to do in closed rooms is way different compared to the real mountains. Then it started raining towards the last kms, the mist and rain had covered the views from the top. When I got to the monastery the monks and the Lama were out with the organizers greeting the runners at another epic finish line, with a time of 05:05:37 and came in 9th female.
Stage 3 course map. Photo credit: Global Limits
A photo of me in action. Photo credit: Global Limits
Kinzang at Checkpoint 2 with a giant prayer wheel. Photo credit: Global Limits
The tough climb towards Phajoding monastery at 3600m altitude. Photo credit: Global Limits
Lama Namgay of the Phajoding monastery, with the finish line in the background
CAMP 4, The Phajoding monastery at 3600m
In the monastery it was very cold , I put on all my layers and beanie. We slept in a classroom on a hard floor and shared the room with other runners. I barely slept that night, let alone sleeping at high altitude. Life there was not easy, there wasn't a heating system, nor hot water during the harsh winter season when the whole place is covered with snow. In order to reach to the monastery you need to take an arduous foot path for approx 5 km. During dinner Lama Namgay explained to us how challenging life in the monastery can be for the monks.
A that stage, the biggest desire of the young monks was to play a short soccer match against the runners and Global Limits team, they prepared for it the whole year. Stefan had said anyone who doesn't play for at least 2 minutes would get a time penalty! So we played at 3600m altitude against a bunch of monks. The monks won the game 4-3 but everyone had so much fun, and Kat was the Lama's player of the match.
Phajoding Monastery from the top
With the monks
We slept in this classroom at 3600m altitude
The soccer game at its best, I took part as a goalkeeper here
Kat was the Lama's player of the match. Photo credit: Global Limits
STAGE 4 – 38km, 31 May 2017, Phajoding Monastery To Paro
We took off for the longest stage so far, which started with a small climb to the highest point of the race then a slippery downhill. The rain had turned most of the terrain to mud, and also few sections were detoured as the rain had made the river impassable. The terrain was mixed of narrow single track, forest mud, and river side paths. We then crossed a mountain pass of about 3500m, and the last section was a descent through rice fields to the camp at 2280m at a farm house in Paro.
The course was very well marked in all stages. The orange ribbons and flags were obvious from meters afar. The course was tricky, in many sections we crossed rivers where our shoes were soaked, and then dipped in mud which made it heavier and more challenging to run with. This was one of the longest, and most scenic stages.
Stage 4 course map. Photo credit: Global Limits
Kat tackling the climb which was quite vertical and long
Lovely children we met in the village
Casual! The valley in the background is where we're heading
Race route through the rice paddies. Can you spot the orange mark?
This section was tricky as it took us through those slippery rocks along the river
CAMP 5, in a farm house in Paro at 2280m
We arrived at the camp in a farm house in a small village. Stefan had made sure that every camp includes a unique and memorable experience. We were offered a traditional Bhutanese stone bath. The bath was actually in a large wooden trough with a section to put the stone that kept the water hot. The water wasn't changed every time someone went in, so we had to be clean. A beautiful lady had given us a nice thorough scrub before we got into the water bath. That was very welcome after four days of dirt and mud. Also, the owners had kindly washed our clothes and shoes and kept them out for us to dry.
By this stage our bodies were tired, eyes were puffed, with very minimum sleep and we still got two stages left.
The farm house where we spent the night
The owners preparing the fire
The Bath House
Our sleeping ground
STAGE 5 – 54 km, 1 June 2017, Paro To Drukgyel Dzong
We took off for the longest stage of the race. The course was along a road around the valley of Paro until the first checkpoint where we turned off into the rice fields. Then we headed upwards from Rinpung Dzong towards the second checkpoint. The course then went down along the airport runway, it continued along the highway until we crossed the river on some slippery logs. The rain from previous nights had made the water level higher, so it was challenging to walk alongside it without getting wet feet. The course went through rice paddies then a climb to 2500m to reach Drukgyel Dzong for the finish.
I met George, a Greek-Australian living in Ireland, at the second checkpoint we stayed and finished together in 08:18:53 time, I came in 9th female again.
Stage 5 course map. Photo credit: Global Limits
Crossing the suspension bridge one of many on the course. Photo Credit: Global Limits
Trucks of Bhutan are a piece of art
Over looking the river and valley
Race route along the airport's runway
Finishing the longest stage with George. Photo credit: Global Limits
CAMP 6, Drukgyel Dzong at 2500m
The longest stage finished in a magnificent historical place Drukgyel Dzong built in 1649. We were very lucky to have a clear sky that day and see the highest peaks of Bhutan. The Himalayas! The day finished around a camp fire with all the runners gathered to celebrate the near end of a long journey, with only 15km left to finish the next day. There was laughter, chatter, some tears and lots of beers!
Drukgyel Dzong, in the distance with a clear view of the Himalayas
Drukgyel Dzong, Bhutan
Speedy Rodrigo who ran to the rescue of anyone short on water before reaching the checkpoint
Around the camp fire
STAGE 6 – 15 km, 2 June 2017, Drukgyel Dzong To The Tiger’s Nest Monastery
We finally reached the last day of the race. The course went off on a road after which it started getting tricky with narrow ledges and sheer drops. There were water channels (Falaj) that cut through the mountain also part of the course.
The finish line at Tiger’s Nest was getting closer but seemed too far in the distance. Sat up in the middle of the mountains at 3050m. The last 3km climb was basically around 700 steps down and 200 steps up to reach the finish.
Kat and I took on this stage together. We also shared the tent, and ran together some other stages of the race. Unfortunately she had some knee pain that surfaced during the second stage from the grueling technical terrain specially the down hills. Nevertheless, she finished strong! We were both so happy and proud to cross the finish line together.
Stage 6 course map. Photo credit: Global Limits
Water channels (Falaj). Photo credit: Peter Minicka
The Tiger's Nest in the distance with lots of prayer wheels and flags on route
Crossing the finish line and final stage with Kat. Photo credit: Global Limits
This picture says it all, Tiger’s Nest
The 200 km journey was over but not yet! After we visited the monastery, we had to go back down the stairs. But this time there was no rush to finish and we could take our time to get to the cafeteria where we had lunch and then buses were waiting to take us to our hotel. After a much needed shower we went for the cultural show. The ceremony started by a traditional dance in presence of our Guest of Honour The former Chief Justice of Bhutan, His Excellency Mr Sonam Topgay. He was the architect of the Constitution of Bhutan, of which we were all given a copy, some in English, some in Bhutanese.
Every runner got a Bhutanese prayer wheel as a trophy, so unique just as the race was!
After the ceremony ended, a big group of us hit a club in Paro called 'Insomnia', it perfectly described a bunch of ultra runners in the wild for the past week. We danced and celebrated our finish, then a bus transported us back to the hotel. I took the flight the next day back to Dubai.
Global Limits 2017, the best team
And an awesome bunch of people
WE DID IT FOR A CAUSE, VANESSA!!
We managed to raise around $10,000 with the help of friends, family, fellow runners, people from around the globe donated and contributed to this cause which covered an antibiotic course for Vanessa who was getting a treatment for Leukemia in the Children Cancer Center of Lebanon (CCCL).
Kat and I at the finish line
Representing Children Cancer Center, Lebanon (CCCL)
A picture with Vanessa post the race at the CCCL, Lebanon
Children's Cancer Center, Lebanon (Hands of Hope)
That's it the end of my story. There may be few errors as I tried to put this together after a very long time post the race. There are also many incidents and people that I probably didn't mention, but each one had made this race a special and unique adventure. Thank you to all my fellow runners, the people of Bhutan, the crew who cooked and prepared our food and set our camps, and the ones who transported us and our bags. Thank you Global Limits team, organizers, volunteers, sweepers, and doctors. Thank you Stefan. It was not only a race, but beyond that, a lifetime and soul enriching experience.
If you reached here, thank you! I hope you enjoyed reading my blog or it inspired you. It was an epic adventure, if you like it sign up and go do it you won't regret it, and always remember to LIVE!
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